Jammu to Jaisalmer: Jan 2016

Hi,
Just got back from a ten days long sojourn, seven days in fact when we discount the travel legs, to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan. Before I kill you with some shoddy write-ups and misplaced images, a bit of preface...

Firstly, keeping up with what happens with me every time I step into Thar, we did receive a few droplets this time too. Even though the shower would have escaped a casual eye, we saw the droplets on our windscreen on two brief occasions. So, the tradition continues!

Secondly, a few pick ups from the trip....

That certain Rats make better community than a typical human settlement

That Freedom comes at a Price

That human Ass(es) can really rub off a Stone bench

That Daughters grow up really Fast

That Ghost Tourism is not that bad an idea after all

That Nature's force can turn wood into a rock

That to some, idea of Sarv Siksha Abhiyaan does not make financial sense

That 'virginity' need not always relate to a particular gender

That if some of them could speak, many of us would die of shame and guilt

That when He summons, we bloody well oblige
&

That a Jungle may look like this.

Well, here we go with the Travel Tale/////

It was the usual winter vacation time for Czia and we had two options - Goa or a part of Rajasthan. And then events took turns of various kinds and made us realise that we had just about ten days to quench our thirst to drive around. Goa, suddenly began to look like a mission difficult to achieve unless aim would just be to spend two days there. We, therefore, settled for the other option - Rajasthan. Rajasthan has been visited a number of times in the past, not to count many transit drives, and while there is nothing much left for me to see per se, for Czia and Deepika, Jaisalmer looked attractive. So, it was gonna be Jaisalmer - proposed and finalised in no time. We, however, wanted no deadlines and timelines to ruin the fun. No reservations, thus, were done for anything. And then just a day before our proposed date of start, Pathankot incident happened. With red alert and talks of some more bastards looming large around NH, it was obvious that we had no choice - we had to go and so did we! If such cowardly acts succeed in forcing us indoors, their aim would be met. We did our bit by defying them in our own little way.

Day One :- I took off from my base and reached Jammu by 0800h. Another hour there and we were off at 0900h. Jammu to Pathankot was a zip on the four lane. There was hardly any traffic and one could see more of men in khakhis than in civvies. A couple of years back, we had gone to Golden Temple from Jammu using Pathankot-Amritsar route but 100-odd Kms had turned out to be a pain in the back with lot of construction work, resultant diversions and jams. Any thought of taking Jallandhar route were, however, nipped in the bud when a police party stopped us on the deserted highway near Pathankot. Some action was on along side the NH, they informed us. We had no option to move straight on towards Amritsar, steering away from Jallandhar axis. As we drove into the road leading towards Amritsar, we were pleasantly surprised to see an empty but well-made four lane waiting for us. The run till Amritsar was smooth and flying. We wanted to call a halt at around lunch time and for that Bhatinda appeared to be well within our sights. However, nothing appeared to have changed beyond Amritsar since 2009 when we were posted at Ferozepur. A congested exit from the city and then traffic on a road that is just about two way with many bumps and cracks. Finally, reached Bhatinda a couple of hours later than expected. A friend, at a very short notice, had organised a good accommodation there and that was where we nested for the night.

Our Nest for the night​

Czia with Grizzly
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It was a pretty nippy evening and we stayed indoors. The staff served us with some simple but very tasty and appetizing dinner and we slept well with our tummies well fed. The first day on the road was over for us. However, the fact that same days and moments have different meanings for different people, was reinforced as we switched on the TV and logged into our Whatsapp. Not known to us at the time when we had been asked to take diversion near Pathankot by Punjab Police, for some, the life had got over...... Lt Col Niranjan had been martyred an hour or so before we had been guided by the cops.

Day 2 - For a change, we had a target, albeit a small one, set for the day. Bikaner was where we wanted to be for lunch and subsequent stay. The reasons for three of us were, however, varied. Czia had heard about temple at Deshnok; Deepika wanted to meet a couple (from IBIS - IronButtsItchySoles) whom we had not met for a few years now; I was getting nostalgic about Laalji's mirchi vadas! It was going to be a easy day and yet we hit the road after breakfast without lazying around unnecessarily. That was one good decision since we faced the first detour even before leaving Bhatinda itself. Bhatinda has a thermal plant whose chimneys are visible from far distances. A road takes off from a point next to thermal plant and heads southwest towards Abohar, Fazilka, Suratgarh and then Bikaner. We hit the spot and found a bridge under construction. A drive through a locality and for 10 Kms finally brought us on to the other side of the construction site. A small leap of a few meters was thus covered in half an hour.
The road ahead was good to great and barring a few patches, Grizzly zipped at a good speed. Ganganagar bypass is now ready and that is a big relief for travellers headed either way. Suratgarh was hit even before any space could have been created in the stomach. With breakfast still keeping us full, we took a five minutes halt opposite military station to cherish fresh juice and buy and cut a couple of radishes to be eaten raw. It is a big risk especially when weather doesn't allow rolling down the windows in case of an emergency but we took it (The day needed an adventure after all!). By grace of the Almighty and courtesy some rugged stomach linings, we remained OK and no unpleasant situation was created.
The road between Suratgarh and Bikaner is under expansion and resurfacing and that meant quite a troublesome drive. BTW, as we were to realise later, today in Rajasthan, so much of road improvement/construction activity is happening that if it is a NH and not a four or six lane, it would be in the process of getting improved upon. So, choose NHs wisely for a while to come. in fact, pick up NHs that are already broad and newly constructed or else, simply take the state highways (SHs) if a choice is available. We were to learn this lesson soon and we implemented the plan only towards fag end of the travel.
In addition to mangled road surfaces and constricted road space, Suratgarh-Bikaner stretch is also devoid of good eating places. Eating joints are basic and minimalist and generally enjoy patronage of drivers who tend to ogle at ladies as if they were the side dishes in their meals. There was one joint coming up about 25 Kms short of Bikaner but was not functional yet. An alternate route connects Suratgarh with Bikaner via Chattarpur (Bridhwal Headworks route) but even that, as we were told later, is in bad shape. We hit Bikaner at around 1400h and entered the first restaurant, Mangalam, that we came across. Reasonable place with just about OK food and nothing much else!
Drove straight to the guestroom that had been tied up by the friend whom we were to look up in the evening. After a cup of tea and some lazying around, we took off for Deshnok, some 30 odd Kms away. It was my second visit to the temple and while nothing much appeared to have changed over past eight odd years, a new hotel has come up next to the temple and it looked good from outside. Even local shopkeepers spoke highly about the new property that goes by he name of some Palace (they call it 'VIP type' hotel).
Being the evening time, there was hardly any rush and we took time wondering at the marvel. Unlike last visit, we were in no rush, had better weather and did not have to rub shoulders with others. So, we sat down watching the rat soldiers of Mata. Yes, there appeared to be inter-rat issues ranging from occupation of certain prized holes and crevices, Buzkhashi type of competition while pulling or dragging the tastier eats, mounting the favourite females and yet they appeared to make better habitation. There appeared to be no road rage, no parking issues, no dearth of free rations and water, no serious fights, no law enforcing authority (read money extortionists) and all appeared to be well and under control. Yes, they were tolerant too (like most of us). And they could teach a lesson or two to us, the humans.

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The famous white rat, however, was not to be seen and though we did look here and there, we did not really go searching for the white ones..... anti-apartheid approach!
Having earned some brownie points, we headed straight to commit some sins - sin of eating deep fried mirch vada, sin of enjoying some good drinks, food and pudding, sin of criticizing everyone else as we got high and then sin of driving back to the room in an inebriated state. The fact that we survived the orgy of sins, as described above, our brownie points must have really been scored earlier in the evening. The day came to an end as we tucked ourselves into cozy quilts and blankets. We were still in the 'transport' leg. Our travel would begin tomorrow, insha'allah!

Day Three - A  charm of the trip was the views on the black tarmac from today onward. 350 odd Km drive from Bikaner to Jaisalmer was a zip with under four hours of tyre burning. At the same time, we were now moving out of cooler North and more we inched away from Bikaner, more warm it had been turning out to be. With a superb road and not too heavy a traffic, the resultant phenomenon was views of mirages on either side of hot noon sun. Czia had seen such optical illusions earlier but had conveniently forgotten about them. So, for her, it was a re-discovery of a discovery and she never missed an opportunity to point out such illusions (and there were many) right till the end of the journey. Yes, we did chase hundreds of mirages during the trip.

Pokharan was a little detour and it was taken in remembrance of my last visit to a sweets shop on the main crossing inside the town. Yes, I wanted my folks to taste some snacks and typically thick fruit lassi (tastes more like srikhand) off that shop that is run by a gentleman with long mustaches and many beaded chains around his neck; not to forget his traditional headgear. We were not disappointed and the only complaint that Czia had was that her tummy was now too full to allow anything else inside - a happy situation for a poor eater!

This was my third and our first trip to Jaisalmer. The first one of 1990s was probably the one that had cast the greatest impressions. Jaisalmer of those days was a dry, power-deficit, arid region. Fort was the only landmark worth the mention and from top of the fort, those well-known havelis and few temples could be seen with sandy patches separating such reference points. The previous visit (HERE) was in the hot month of April 2012. A lot had changed by then (including the area being energy surplus by then) but this time while changes were not too many, there were certain notable variations. Shall come to that a bit later.


We were well in time, in fact early, for lunch as Grizzly spotted some big windmills and military barracks for the first time, thus announcing our arrival in the outskirts of the Golden City. And suddenly, we saw this on the right and bang on the highway.....

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Yes, it was the newly opened war museum of our men in uniform....

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It is a good place for a variety of reasons. Firstly, it is open to all and lays no usual restrictions on visitors. So, you can touch the tanks and guns, climb on to them and feel the energy that comes with such war machines. Such an arrangement is not typical of our Army who is traditionally known to be opting to remain under wraps. But it is a positive step and helps countrymen bond with the soldiers. Secondly, the place is very well maintained and well designed with all utilities and amenities like nice restaurant, seating arrangements, clean washrooms and lots of space to walk around and a huge parking. And there is no entry fee. Last but not the least is the audio-visual show that helps inquisitive minds understand many hows and whys! The quotes on display motivate a lot.....

Atop own tank


A captured Pakistani lorry (inverted flag says it all!)



The restaurant has seating inside as well as outside and you don't have to buy food to use their chairs.



From Heroes' minds



An unsolicited advice - do try and visit, esp if you have youngsters with you. It makes one feel proud and helps understand a piece of understated history
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You would need an hour or so to absorb and soak in the place. We were no different and by the time it got over, we realised that we would be late for lunch at Jaisalmer since we had no prior bookings done and that meant search before check-in. We decided to have a quick bite and convinced Czia to nibble a bit. Off we were after a while.

Drove straight into the city to find a negative change that I would touch upon later. There were many hotels with beautiful facade and local architecture but surroundings were not too appealing. During my last visit, I had thought of staying inside the Fort but taking the vehicle all the way up and then parking it down below, near the first (of four) gate did not look too attractive. So, we turned around and came to the cluster of hotels that is located on Pokharan-Jaisalmer Road, just at the outskirts. BTW, there is another cluster on the far side of the city (towards Sum dunes but within the city itself) but I was not too sure about the same. After making the U-turn, we took the second right once out of the town and across BSF campus. The very first property is that of Taj (our favourite group) and we checked out the place and then checked in soon thereafter. Gateway Rawalkot is a cute, clean and well run hotel. My professional background got me some good discount and we dived inside to escape a pretty warm sun. Coming from single digit temperature zone, it was a drastic change. And yes, we did run the car AC on our way down from Bikaner!

After some rest and tea, we went out to commence our round of town. We wanted to walk around in the Fort to start with and that was what we did after hiring a guide. A kit of pigeons welcomed us in style...

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The Fort, as we know, is a live one (like one at Chittorgarh) where locals continue to live their normal lives. I had shared my experiences about the fort in detail earlier (HERE). I shall, therefore NOT repeat my previous discoveries. Some clicks, however, are being shared here....

A pic of this seating slab had been included in the earlier log too but fascination continues. Human asses can do wonders!


A view from one part of the fort of another part. Business and life go on side by side, protected by strong walls


It remained hazy throughout our stay in Jaisalmer; visibility down to a Km or so at the most


The prototype of the Fort



What lies beyond? The only change this time was that we did visit the museum and realised that my guide during the past trip had been right. But for the highest point of the fort, the museum visit is not a value for money


Literally an art Gallery


Some of the local residents.... Fort has two demographics, ie Brahmins and Rajputs. Thank God, pigeons have no such issues


While a new age plumbing may look like a sore, the fact remains that people residing inside the Fort do keep their lanes and surroundings clean


Another of Gunner's eye view


Please read the appeal on the board .... there was a time when all the mirror work used to be done in Rajasthan (Chautan near Barmer, to be specific) but then came in shiny plastic thingies that replaced mirror pieces. Having done that, machines started to be used since plastic chips did not mind a needle here and there unlike mirror chips that could not be drilled through. The cost of production came down drastically and artisans began to lose out. Today, UNFORTUNATELY, mirror work (done in hand) is a dying art while most of the stuff available in the market is machine produced plastic work. We did our bit by buying some original stuff even though we generally don't shop during trips
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Time appeared to stand still while we were inside the Fort but clocks don't stop in real life. It was dark by the time we emerged from lanes in the upper part of the Fort. It had turned chilly too all of a sudden and my shirt suddenly started to feel inadequate. Time was due for a good cup of coffee or a bowl of hot soup. The best place (arguably) inside the Fort is this and this was where we went in....

Jaisal Italy is known for Italian food and usual time-pass stuff.


The place is neat and has both terrace and indoor seating arrangements. A Nepali fellow runs it and both the service and the taste are great. An added bonus is the view like this...



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Staring with starters, we almost stayed back for dinner but Czia (the fussy eater) had different ideas. On our way, we had seen a place called Desert Boys ki Dhani and that was where she wanted to go for dinner. We were left with little choice. The real reason for her insistence was this....

When you don't want to eat, divert the attention!
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This place is one of those recommended by Lonely Planet and it turned out to be a good one. While many opted to sit indoors because of the sudden chill that had taken many by surprise, we sat out braving the elements since cultural show was on in the courtyard. They also have a nice, little hookah corner. We ordered Dal Bhaati Churma and enjoyed the local cuisine that had been pretty well -made. Having spent a couple of hours, we retreated to our niche but not before enjoying a stiff but juicy pan in the street.

The property looked more charming in the evening...

The pool (though not very comfortable to enter even during hazy (read cold water) day) gives a great view. In the absence of the haze, the Fort stands out in the distance

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We had intentionally skipped the Havelis and temples in the town. Coming back to the issues hinted upon earlier, the first notable change was amount of muck and dirt in the city. Dust is something that can not be avoided but muck can always be managed. While the Fort was clean from inside, it wore a shabby look since its parapets are decoying now. But all the streets and roads, especially those around the Fort, are littered with muck. Broken stones, stagnating water, open drains and unclean places mar the beauty of so many beautiful buildings (both new and old) that stand amidst such surroundings. Greenery could be an option (if Army can do that in Jaisalmer, why can't local administration!) or they may have to pave the city with golden stone to cover the unused areas. Cleanliness drive, of course, will be required as SOS.

Jaisalmer, traditionally, has always been attracting foreigners. Unfortunately, there were hardly any seen this time around. Even during the peak summers of 2012, there were many wandering the place. Locals say that while number of foreigner visitors has declined sharply, there has been a sharp rise in the number of domestic tourists. So, that is OK for business and maths but there is more to it and same needs to be analysed by the stakeholders.

It was a meaningful half day spent in the Golden City. May Sun always shine bright and keep it glowing Amen!

Day 4 - Today was the day that held lots of excitement for Czia who had been briefed as to what to expect during the course of the day. She likes to know the plan for the upcoming day and log for the day looked pretty interesting to her and why not!
We had a lazy breakfast and convinced Czia to give up on her idea of taking a swim in the pool. She, like a good daughter, did not believe us but when the manager told her what we had been telling her (that water was too cold and sun was hidden behind the haze), she gave up the argument that was based on her observation that ambient temperature had been pretty warm. We took off northwestwards, driving on empty road leading to Ramgarh. We crossed the IG Canal and then took a pit stop to appreciate the beauty of virgin dunes that hugged the road on either side. Technically though the virginity had been breached by some unmindful pole erections (pun intended) that supported some electrical wires. A village lay on to one side and yet the dunes were virgin and alluring....

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It is a nice, little spot with dunes extending deep but running for a couple of hundred meters along the road. The natural choice was, therefore, to get down and get dirty. Childhood comes back at such times and both mother and daughter rolled, skidded and did some fun thing in the sand. Czia had a lesson to pick ....time is like sand slipping out of the hand, and thus, important to be taken care of...

Nature's art .... beyond comprehension; beautiful nevertheless!
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As some of the readers would have guessed it correctly, this is the 120 Kms long road that connects Jaisalmer with Tanot. The road surface is pretty good and traffic is minimal. Near dunes, road surface has been removed for re-laying as well as re-alignment. A few Kms ahead, we hit the next settlement- in fact a couple of shops, a water tank and a temple. The temple stands to the left of the road and signifies the point where Pakis had managed to reach during 1965 war when we hardly had any troops in the area. We were around 09 Kms short of Tanot at that point. There are two legends associated with the presiding deity, Ghantiyali Mata. As per one, she had killed a demon, who used to walk around in the area, by pulling him down by a cancerous growth (Hindi Ghanth or knot) that he had on his neck. But the second version (the one that stands painted on the walls of the temple) talks about vengeance of one community against an oppressing community and is considered to be more authentic. The deity is supposed to be sister of the deity at Tanot and some miracles associated with 1965 war have also been painted on its walls.

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The temple is managed by BSF and soldiers attend to the visitors. An old man from Tanot looks after the basic issue of shoe management but does not stay there.
After another ten minutes or so, we reached the famous temple at Tanot. A lot stands recorded in the cyber space and that is what the BSF guys and stories written in the temple say too ......some 3000 odd shells and bombs were fired by Pakis on this temple during 1965 war and we had very less troops in the area. All the shells and bombs that fell inside the temple compound, did not burst and enemy could not do much here. Some of such shells have been put on display (A detailed account of the recorded history can be found in my book, Adventures of Faith (Due to be in market by June 2016; e-version available at kindle (HERE)). Some pics of the place....

In the wilderness of Thar, this place stands out for its maintenance and well-being


Who the hell said we are intolerant? A goat chews away on flower offerings on a hawan kund inside the temple and no one says a word!


Some solid and 'explosive' evidence - hard to ignore!


A nook has Mansa Devi temple where devotees communicate through fresh handkerchiefs


Intolerance of a different kind.... courtesy all play and no work nor any threat!


Back to the Intolerance Issue..... all those guys must be brought here to see for themselves - a peerbaba lies in the veranda of the temple!


A grateful Army acknowledges Mata's blessings
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ICICI bank has an ATM here (the next closest one is of SBI at Ramgarh). It was out of cash that day. Obviously, no bank will recharge the cash on daily basis if the travel involved is more than 225 Kms from the nearest branch. Nevertheless, the ATM must be a great thing for BSF guys. There is a border pillar about 07 Kms ahead and vehicles can be taken there. But please tie up with BSF HQ either at Ramgarh or Jaisalmer at least a day prior or else you will not be permitted (for those who want to see a live IB).

From Tanot, instead of driving back to Ramgarh on the same route that one takes to reach from Jaisalmer, a small detour of about 35 additional Kms brings us back to Ramgarh but via another place where history was written in 1971 war - Laungewala battlefield that had inspired JP Dutta's famous war epic, BORDER. The road is single and runs through wilderness in southerly direction. Half way to Laungewala, one small memorial illustrates an often neglected fact that soldiers keep doing their bit even when there is no war. As mentioned earlier, there were not many troops in this sector in 1965, nor were the roads and brackish water wells that are seen today. While Pakis got stuck at Tanot despite their numerical and equipment superiority, they did manage to reach Ghantiyali temple by passing through the wide gap to the South of Tanot. They were sorted out at Ghantiyali by the deity herself even when there were no soldiers of our forces present there. As their pincers failed at Tanot and Ghantiyali, they sat at this very spot, Sadhewala, and in good numbers. War got over but they did not move out- the intent was to alter the alignment of IB by forcing their hand in a wild land. What they did not expect was the guts with which our soldiers attacked them. It is usual to get out numbered as a defender since attacker always attacks with superior numbers but here, we attacked a force that was in defences and was numerically superior to us. The price paid was heavy because of such an imbalance but we did it and they ran like cunning foxes, back to where they had first come. A small memorial tells us this part of unknown war diary....

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Our next stop was at a legendary battlefield of 1971 war. A battle between two unequal and differently equipped forces was fought here. On one side were just about a hundred odd soldiers in hastly prepared defences (even protective minefields were not yet ready) with no reinforcements around them and attacking them were about 2500 troops with 50 tanks and more than 500 other vehicles. Indian defenders had only ONE anti tank recoilless (RCL) to fight 50 tanks that were immune to bullets from rifles and machine guns. One line that aptly illustrates as to what happened at Laungewala, is this....

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Yes, we drew a line here and then during the night 4/5 Dec 1971, we did not let Pakis cross the line despite all their numerical and technical superiority. Troops, when informed about such a heavy attack building upon them, had two tactical choices - either withdraw and fight at a place and time of own choosing (perfectly alright in a war) or hold on and face the odds. Our soldiers under Maj Kuldeep Chandpuria chose the second and the tougher option. When the IAF swung in the next morning, many hours of fighting had already happened wherein the sanctity of the above mentioned line was not allowed to be breached. When the battle got over, Pakis had vanished, leaving their 200 odd dead, 500 odd vehicles (some still perfectly alright) and 37 tanks. Two of our braves achieved martyrdom on that cold night in an unforgiving desert! Though delayed but such a memorial is a great step in the right direction. Some snapshots.....

Visitors are allowed to climb and touch the equipment on display


A view through the barrel of a RCL. The sole RCL deployed here had actually been destroyed during the fight


A pathway every Indian must walk on


Though it was night time that fateful night, moon was up and this is how our thinly defended soldiers would have seen enemy in steel charging on to them..... scared? possibly! gave up? NAY!


Certain things run in genes......Czia emulates how soldiers would have moved around in communication trenches when enemy came charging. This was her own find; I told her nothing about it. Look at her dog tags!


"Hey Pops, one day I shall too!"
"God willing, yes! Insha'allah, my baby!"

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There is an AV room (show is a must watch), a cafe and other amenities here though scale is smaller than the museum at Jaisalmer. Outside, near the parking, a makeshift (Army) stall sells South Indian snacks too but demand is always too high. Pakodas and tea/coffee, however, is always available. As we sat down having our snacks, a bus load of school kids from local area arrived. There was huge amount of patriotic sloganeering and somehow, the noise sounded like a nice music to ears..... there were, certainly, some goosebumps too. One particular slogan, and that too coming from students who did not look from well off families, touched my heart ; it went, "Aadhi roti khayenge, Desh ko bachayenge".

We hit Jaisalmer at around 1500h. I wanted to take out some cash but surprisingly, all the ATMs of all the banks claiming to give hassle free services to clients like us, were dysfunctional. Either cash was not available or system errors were flashing on the screens. Finally, we found one inside a locality opposite the BSF campus on the other end of the city. The board on the highway showed a Central Bank ATM but the only ATM inside the locality was that of SBI. Anyways, that did not matter since we finally got the cash. Next to the ATM, was a shop selling Kachauris and ice-cream. Of all the places, we were destined to have our lunch-cum-snacks at that unnamed shop and we did. We, however, did not go to the hotel.......as the sun began to go down, we reached Kuldhara, the ghost village. Time was just about right with dark approaching fast.

We saw the well-known old man who keeps appearing on news channels with story of Kuldhara, sitting next to the gate that guards entry into the village. Even though he keeps saying on TV that there are no ghosts there, the anchors always say otherwise. Anyways, bought our entry tickets and asked for the guide. The ticket vendor-cum-gatekeeper told us that we would find guides near a temple inside the village. We drove on as he shouted at us to get back before dark since he had to close the gates. There was enough daylight still left though. Some views from inside the village....

This was one of 84 villages that were abandoned in one single night by Palliwal brahmins who could no longer tolerate the demands of a sex starved jagirdar. They, as per the belief, cursed the villages before moving out. All other 83 villages are similar but have not caught fancy of media and tourists


Govt has begun with restoration work in the village


The only temple in the village has now been restored but no guides were to be found and soon we were the only ones left in the village


How often do you get a whole village (so what if it is deserted) to yourself? We made best use of the time to walk inside the houses under restoration. Other houses are just crumbling and most of entrances are covered with bushes or loose stones


Sun went down after saying bye to the temple...... the feel became more real


A strange marriage.... old system, new lock


Doesn't appear to belong to original inhabitants


The original art


One good thing about the restoration work is the fact that old and original methods are being employed
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We stayed on till a point when it started to get dark. Back on the gate, we spoke with the gatekeeper again. The old man, however, was already gone. The gatekeeper lives in a village that has come up next to Kuldhara and as per him, all that ghost stuff is bullshit. He has grown up in that village and over past 30 odd years of his memory, he has crossed Kuldhara village during dark a hundred times. He, like others, have never seen any ghost!

It had been a long day and hotel appeared to be an oasis. We rested for a while but were pulled by the sound of folk music. Soon, we were in the restaurant, enjoying our drinks over some folk performances...

Cheers!


Czia had a small competition with the artists as she tried her recently acquired Kathak skills


Guys then requested her to give a little performance of Kathak and she did that without any hesitation. Childhood is undoubtedly the best time of life!​

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​Day 5 - Another day with a comfortable start. Czia had reasons to be excited yet again - we were due to meet a family today. They are dear friends and kids gel together well too. We would be spending the day together and that was the reason for Czia'a exuberance. Self and Czia did some car maintenance post breakfast. We checked out of the hotel exactly at 1200h (before they could throw us out!). The stay had been wonderful and hospitality par excellence. Their restaurant manager, Mr Ram Singh, was all grace and humility. In fact, everyone was nice and prompt but for a person for whom happiness means a full stomach, Ram Singh stood out. (Tariff ; 6.5K for B&B per day (discounted from 9k)+ 1000 per head per meal (all inclusive); Czia's extra meals were complimentary)

We waited on the road leading into Jaisalmer for a while. Our friends arrived in no time and we commenced our day together. I had done Sam dunes during previous visit (and Sam was known but not very famous during the very first visit more than two decades ago; it was an omnipresent 'virginity' around the town at that time). Our friends who had met up now, had done Sam the previous day. We were on the same grid on one issue - Sam has lost its charm now. There is too much of a crowd and commercialization is now complete. We had, therefore, decided to spend the night at Khuri instead. But before we parked ourselves at Khuri, we had another place to visit. So, on Jaisalmer-Khuri Road, we took a left from the Union Circle, just about a couple of Kms out of Jaisalmer. We were now on Barmer Road. About 10 odd Kms, on the right of the road, lies Akal Fossil Park. Having seen fossils in Ladakh, we were OK with it initially but once the gatekeeper-cum-ticket vendor - cum- guide told us a things or two, we were impressed. All the fossils in the park are tree trunks and other woods now turned rocks. So, the fossil looks like a piece of wood (with all its insect bites and marks) but once you softly hit it with a piece of stone (holding and not throwing), the sound is distinct and clearly as obtained when two stones/rocks meet. The first enclosure to the left of the entrance is where such a thing is explained in detail and then you are at your own to explore the arid park.

Holes made by insects can be seen..... touch tells us something else


A Burrow dug out by a bird when it was all wood.....now the bird will break its beak if it tries the same stunt


The Administrative complex


A reminder of a failed business idea


A close up..... Emu is a very inquisitive bird, flexes its neck more than its cousin, Ostrich and doesn't mind getting up and close


The explanation


One of many other fossils that are spread in the park but have been protected from touch
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It is a govt run place and is worth a visit if you want to see something different. There is an entry fee for persons as well as vehicles (nominal though). Picked up some beer since we did not have much info about the place we were now headed for. Thankfully, the wine shop guy had his freezer on (though it did not really matter since with about 40 Kms to go, the beer would have turned warm in any case; sun had been shining full and bright and haze had lifted by now). Most of the shops along the highways in Rajasthan, however, had been using display refrigerators as display units only. We did not see anyone having a running fridge even though everyone had been complaining about absence of real winters this year!

By the time we reached Khuri Resort at Khuri, it was well past three in the afternoon. Our friends had been carrying packed lunch from their previous place of stay and we shared that while sitting in a gazebo. The sun was pretty warm and shade of the gazebo provided succour. Had a refreshing cup of tea while our daughters got into sand to create some art of a different kind. The mud huts are good and well kept. Some snapshots....

The facade.... while the roof had tin sheets, a canvas canopy over the sit-out gave a camp-like look and feel


Rooms are air-conditioned and reasonably kept (not outstanding though)


A row of huts.... neat place


The activity area where they have cultural programme every evening


Roof of the sit-out gazebo


Girls and their art


The finished work
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Khuri has many resorts (this one is by the name Khuri Resort itself... Sh Tanya Singh ji@ 09001702434) both along the main road and alongside other inner roads and arteries. Ours was on the main road. Till now, the resort looked OK but there is a specific reason as to why I have shared Tanya Singh ji's number for reference. I shall come to that a bit later. Anyways, our friends had done safari the previous evening and were not very keen on doing it again. So, we took off on two camels to the virgin dunes of Khuri. The dunes are on the other side of the village; got an opportunity to ride through the village.

There was a paved road but half way through the village, it just disappeared


A newly constructed house based on tradition


A temple with a design that is different than ususal


Khuri dunes


Like Sam, they also talk a lot about sunset here
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In fact, Khuri is parallel to Sam (roughly, if not exactly) with Kuldhara sandwiched between the two axes. There were a couple of Mahindra 4x4 jeeps, a few camel carts, one mobile tea kiosk and many camels but not crowded and the place offered lot of space to everyone there. This is where Khuri scores over Sam.

Waves of sand in the sand


Czia having a field day


Another art form


Guests from neighbouring camps arrive for the sunset ritual


Yes, there was peace and privacy but then our country rocks!


Sun disappears before it hits the horizon ... a phenomenon witnessed at many famous places in Western India - from Sam to Saputara and beyond
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Coming back to Tanya Singh ji.... before moving out for safari into the dunes, he had offered to take us and show us another property of his. As per him, the new camp was inside the dunes (virgin ones) and was yet to be made operational. As on date, the camp was livable but without any kitchen or paved courtyard. As per him, people (read tourists) were generally hesitant to stay in the camp since it was desolate, lonely and incomplete. But having interacted with us for a while, he offered to show it to us and gave us an option to stay there for the night but fall back for the evening show and dinner in-between since such facilities did not exist there. So, before embarking upon camel ride, my friend and self had accompanied Tanya ji to the upcoming campsite. Named Partap Jungle Camp, it lies towards Jaisalmer. After leaving Khuri for Jaisalmer and having driven for four odd Kms, a board on the right of the road indicated the camp and we drove into a freshly prepared gravel track. It was gravel and sand but firm enough for the SUV. We saw the camp and liked its location. A peep inside the tents told us that the place was really livable and we smiled and nodded to Tanya Singh ji.

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So, it had all been tied up - our friend would move straight to Jungle camp and enjoy their time there while we went for the ride to the dunes. Then, we were to return from camel ride and stay at Khuri Resort where our friends would have joined us for folk show and dinner and then we would have all gone back to the Jungle Camp.

However, when we returned, we saw two jeeps being loaded at Khuri Resort; even our friends were not to be seen. We were then told that Tanya Singh ji had decided to move all administrative paraphernalia to the new camp. Even while we talked, a jeep dropped one of many dance girls in front of the gate of Khuri Resort..... it all looked business like and routine as usual. Anyways, we moved to the new camp where our friends had been waiting. Incidentally, two more families (from Delhi, I suppose) had also been motivated to stay there by Tanya ji and they had also reached there. With a dozen-odd tents, some of those yet to be completed, the crowd filled the place. Tanya ji had been careful enough to carry our beer that we had handed over to him on arrival at Khuri so that bottles could be cooled. While I don't think he switched on his freezer but what he certainly did was that he bought a few more bottles of same brand from local market at Khuri...just in case! And that was so thoughtful of him, as we were to realise during the course of the evening.

When we reached the camp, lights had just been switched on.

The Jungle camp..... Jungle standing for virgin dunes
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The place was simply great and after the sunset, it became majestic. It had become nippy and our jackets came out and still we hung outside, enjoying the views. This camp is the only camp that is located inside a group of sand dunes. Interestingly, all the resorts that are located close by here (not at Khuri proper), bring their clients here on camels. So, if you are here and are not too fond of camels, you don't need one. The dunes are in your backyard! The virgin dunes extend quite a bit and it is nice to walk barefooted on such an untouched sand.

Tanya ji's team worked like a well-oiled machinery to set things up while we started on our beers. Soon thereafter, the folk show began. Unlike other places where we had been witnessing cultural show every evening, the troupe here had two very talented brothers (Khan brothers) who sang like professionals. So much so that here, unlike at other places, singing took the center-stage. Yes, they had ladies dancing as usual too. And then came the guy with expertise of dancing with pitchers on his head. Chela Ram, the matka-thali expert, did well and enthralled us for quite a while before singers took the stage once again. Tanya ji also came into his mood and started translating folk lyrics for us.

The place comes live amidst wilderness​

With courtyard or hard ground not ready yet, they improvised with a mat... Chela Ram in action


They are trained to pull the spectators in.... happens everywhere


Khan brothers (turbaned guys is the elder one and the one with the dholaki is the younger one)... class apart

Fire pit gave a feel of warmth even though we sat away, on to one side
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We polished off own beer and then Tanya ji's stock too. In the meanwhile, others started with their dinner and the singers shifted to where we had been sitting, a bit outside the main enclosure and in front of own tents. Then began a round of some serious music and we lost our thoughts. It was superb and simply great. We had our dinner post midnight (don't exactly remember the time!) and never said no to clarified butter (ghee) being poured into our dals and churmas!

Finally, it was time to call it a day and switch off the generator. We had other plans though. With ambient cold setting in and beer plus food dropping the body temperature, we should have logically hit the sack but logic had no takers at that moment. We went for a walk into the dunes. With a starlit night but without any moon, all constellations were visible and red lights off wind mills added a charm to the whole setting. We had carried our last bottles to the dunes but were careful to bring back the empty ones! Sometime during that night it was either due to cold (i had been wearing slippers) or due to someone's good sense prevailing, we did decide to get back and call it a day! We slept like logs even though one of the guys from Delhi had been snoring so high that his snores could be heard in all nooks of the camp and even beyond. Tomorrow, we will part our ways and move on in two different directions!

Day 7 - Going by the late finish the previous night (or early morning today), I was sure that start would be lazy for most of us, including the support staff. Tanya Singh ji had gone back the previous night, leaving two boys there to serve tea and hot water in the morning since the camp is yet to have hot running water. I, however, did not want such a situation. Having been through not so good Suratgarh-Bikaner stretch and with the aim of exploring newer areas, we had decided to begin our return journey via Jodhpur. But as per the time plan, we could spend only one night there and while from my previous trip to Jodhpur, I was sure that we would not be able to see even a fraction of Jodhpur in half a day, I wanted Deepika and Czia to have some time for shopping that we had avoided till now. Czia wanted a new lehnga-choli and her demand could not be ignored since she is not a demanding child otherwise. So, to have some time up our sleeves, we had to move out earlier that what was likely.

Got up and went to the bathroom where cold water was available in the tap. The night had ended up pretty cold and water now was in single digit zone but there was no option. After a quick bath and other rituals, I went out to have a look see. Just then, I heard one of the staff boys walking around and urging sleepers to come out and witness the sunrise. To his surprise, not a single soul moved. I was the only one who was, as it was, on his way out. Clicked a few pics of the sunrise and then went around to walk in the dunes once again but not before nudging Czia and Deepika to get up and get moving.

This particular tent was also the tent wherein lay the source of loud snoring...... our next door neighbours from Dilli


I am a pathetic lens person and here is the proof


Even so called untouched dunes have their own inhabitants- the aboriginals!


Yep, almost untouched.... better than being simply virgin (pun intended)


Signs of our outing the previous night


A sleepy camp in the morning


These don't sleep though!
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Came back in time to have a 'kadak' cup of tea. Even though the water for bathing and washing was still being heated, tea had been brewed and it was really yummy. Our package had included morning breakfast too but there was no time. We had some biscuits with tea and were OK since late dinner had at least one use. Our friends came out to bid farewell and we hit the road, back to Jaisalmer thereafter. We were off by 0900h. It was a nice experience, especially the rustic and very original jungle camp. I am sure that a more comfortable stay at Khuri Resort would not have been as memorable! (Tariff...2500 INR for stay, dinner, b/f, cultural show and camel ride; Czia's expenses were complimentary).

We were soon on Jaisalmer-Pokhran road and reached Pokhran as a missed breakfast began to send in reminders. Picked up some freshly fried kachoris and mirch vadas from the same shop since the route passes through Pokharan town. The 345 Km drive was good and barring last 20 odd Kms, it went off well and in about four hours. We were in Jodhpur well in time for lunch. But there was an issue ... we had no prior bookings. As usual, hit straight for Vivanta by Taj, using GPS. There are two more Taj properties in Jodhpur.... one at Umaid Bhawan is a bit too steep at 35K while Gateway is the other one. It was a warm afternoon and AC had to be switched on.

The welcome at Vivanta was good but I told the lady offering wet towels to wipe the heat and dust off the visitors to wait till I get a room. To our luck, only two rooms were available but both had separated beds. The staff offered to join those up but we did not want charm of the room to get spoilt. So, we told them to let those be the way those had been. Vivanta is also called Taj Hari Mahal named after the royalty on whose land the hotel has been built. The first thing that impresses you, besides the aesthetics, staff and courtesies, is the spaciousness of the property. Every room, every sitting area, restaurant and every thing else is high and big and spacious. They have a dedicated zone for kids too.

Czia was happy and that mattered!


All spaces, including outdoors, are big!​

Anyways, changed and got freshened up. After a small discussion as to have lunch in the hotel and dinner outside v/s dinner at the hotel and lunch outside, we picked up the second option since such an option was conducive for shopping and we did not want to have lunch in a rush. Moreover, evening also had a cultural programme (not fed up yet) planned alongside dinner.

We came down and called for our car while Czia posed around her favourite lord

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It was about three when we left the hotel to drive directly to the clock tower. I had bought riding whips from that general area way back in early 1990s and I remembered that area as the best one for seeing some handicraft stuff. We knew that visiting Mehran Garh Fort and Umaid Palace as also other landmarks would not be possible in such a short time. We pended the visits till next trip and chose to walk through the lanes and by-lanes to have a feel of the city life. The jugular vein of the city lies around Clock tower (Ghantaghar) at the foot of the Mehran Garh fort and that was where we went.

There is a gate (po'l) that separates Clock Tower market from the main road. We found a spot and parked short of the gate since area ahead looked pretty congested. With a big car parked on side of a busy road, I had apprehensions and having parked the car, as we walked towards the gate, I approached a cop on duty and asked him if it were alright to park like that. Since our car was now some distance away and he could not see it, he asked me a simple question,"Is the car blocking the main road?". "No," was my answer and he looked happy. "Then it alright, sir!" he replied. I shook hands with him and simply told him that I was a soldier and he saluted without bothering to know my rank! That was very impressive and having noted that, we kept the issue alive in our minds as we walked around. Everywhere, we found the policemen smiling and interacting with people with courtesies. It was a welcome change after likes of PP, JKP and DP. HPP, BTW, is equally nice - by and large that is.

We took a left short of the gate instead of going into Clock Tower area first. Tripolia (Three gates) market is like Dariba Kalan/Chandni Chowk of Jodhpur. It is crowded but offers some very good stuff. As girls got busy buying the lehnga etc, I spotted a tea stall just across the narrow street. Once out of the dress shop, we gave a try....

After a start with kadak chai, this dhakad chai was another good thing to happen that day


The little tea drinker
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While the girls had been shopping, I had taken notes from the shop owner about some good places (historic and heritage eatries) around Tripolia market. Once we finished tea, we walked into a small-narrow lane that leads to Mochiyon ki Gali (Street of shoemakers). As described by him, we hit this shop...

M/S Jai Ram Das and Munni Lal.... the inventors and the most authentic producers of famous Mawa Kachori of the city
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The place sells these kachoris that have the filling of unsweetened mawa. They serve sugar syrup separately. At INR 45 a piece, the stuff is great. We got some packed for taking back home. The trick is in heating up the syrup only when cold kachoris are required to be consumed. Once boiling hot, the syrup needs to be poured into the cavity of the kachori and it becomes as fresh as off the burner. Kept separately, syrup and kachoris have a long shelf life...... I vouch for the claim and the taste.

There is another shop, a bit before this one, selling some very good Kaju Katli.... forgetting the name but all that you need to do there is to ask anyone or better, just keep walking and aromas will pull you automatically.

Passing through Mochiyon wali Gali and not buying local jootis (footwear)..... nigh impossible. So, we landed up here at M/S Fine Moujri....

Mr Abdul Khaalik and two of his sons run this place (9414495397) and they have a lot to offer..... Mr Khaalik with two miniature ones
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After the bag load of joothis on our backs, we came out to a famous shop selling 'Shahi Samosas' and stuff. The shop is close to the gate leading to Clock Tower and is on the main road. My camera batteries died at that moment but I did take some pics (and also of a popular shop selling flavoured soda next door) with Czia's camera. Shall upload those pics later. Yes, hot snacks followed by cool soda filled us up nicely.

We walked into the Clock Tower area that wore a festive look with so many vendors and kiosks and shops and stalls selling so much of stuff. A famous tea-leaves selling shop is located right at the gate itself. Walked around, looking for a Bandini dupatta for a while before climbing on to the tower. Took a few pics with the tab...

The Clock Tower... you can pay and climb it

Mehran Garh Fort seen from the Clock Tower


Life goes on as usual around the tower
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I may regret the dead batteries but that was, in a way, good. Our dear admin, YS, is covering Jodhpur through his log and we all know what he can do with his lens. In any case, ours was just a stop-over and not really a visit to the city.

Bought some local sweets (Gewar) from the famous Janta Misthan Bhandar on the main road and as the darkness fell, we headed back to the hotel with some yummy paans in our mouths.

Some rest, some wash and some make up later, Czia was out in her new dress and we spent rest of the evening enjoying what the hotel had to offer.


When in Rajasthan, look like a local


Of course, this had to happen yet again


This magician had pulled out a fresh flower from her nosey!


Thanking HIM for a beautiful day

Day 8 - Today was, as it happens every time when you turn around and start heading home, a day that brought about the fact that fun was about to get over, at least for a while. Little did, however, we visualise as to what lay in store for us! Yes, there were some interesting and welcome titbits during the day to follow.

Checked out of Vivanta after a sumptuous breakfast. The staff, courteous as ever, went a step ahead in seeing us off with Czia getting a special little memento to remind of our stay at the niche. BTW, she has already given the decision - if in Jodhpur, it would only be at this place. Paid off bills (roughly 7.5K as against 10K because of the discount) and came out to see a dust-laden Grizzly waiting for us amidst very neat and clean surroundings. I smiled as I boarded the car..... that was a distinguishing character; surroundings being immaterial.

We had no definite plans for the day. GPS ji was requested to take us towards Churu that appeared to be roughly at the half distance home. Having read about some fresco and havelis in Churu (AKA gateway to Thar; that is when coming from Delhi/Chandigarh), we had half a mind to check it out but no firm decision had yet been taken. With our tummies full and fuel indicator showing an equally healthy physiological state, we hit the road. The roads, at that hour, were being swept by the conservancy guys and that made us realise the reason behind an already made observation - Jodhpur is a pretty clean city!

We were on Nagaur road from where we had to take a bit of diversion to hit Churu. The vistas had been changing fast as Grizzly guzzled miles after miles. We were now driving through a more friendly desert that had more bushes and semblance of vegetation. With no need to stop or take a break, we cruised on. As we began to close on to Nagaur, we started spotting signboards announcing location of a cows' hospital (claimed as the one with world class standards) a little ahead. It was a few Kms short of Nagaur when we came across a massive campus on to left of the road. Yep, we had reached the place. I may not be too religious (the place has a bit of religious fervor) and yet I remain an animal lover at heart. All three of us share such a passion and it was but natural to take a long due break at that very place.

As we entered the entry gate, a guide appeared without asking. He turned out to be one from the staff and he took us around, showing and explaining the working in the place. They have huge sheds that house four-legged ones while there are spacious cages that house birds as well as for those animals who are hunters (like foxes) or too high on misbehavior (monkeys) or not too social (bucks, doe,stags). The place houses around one thousand five hundred bovines and many more others. It has some great in-house facilities like x-ray lab, operation theatres, medicine rooms, fodder go-downs and sick rooms. Special enclosures are there for orphaned young ones. Why I said religious fervor was because there are no buffaloes and meat eating dogs, apparently because of some religious belief!

What happens there is that animals that are found to be sick, hurt or injured, are picked up and brought here by institution-run ambulances, forest department vehicles and even villagers. Even pet cows are welcome. They have wards as per category of the illness or injury. Those who are suffering with terminal illnesses, are simply looked after and a smooth and, if possible, a painless departure from this thankless world is ensured when the moment comes naturally. Others are released after they are healed. As a way of working, they accept one pet cow for treatment on the condition that the owner would take another cow along when he comes to collect his own cow. The place runs like a military establishment when it comes to orderliness, working methodology and over-all upkeep. A few snapshots...

Huge sheds house the sick and ailing. The curtains, as visible, are fine quilts that cover the enclosures during cold weather. For those who are worse off physiologically, quilts are used to cover their bodies during night time



This is the ward for those suffering from cancer.... thankfully, most of these silent souls are recovering well.. Look at the neat dressing and the fact that one with a fully bandaged head is still able to munch on her feed


This is the ward meant for those with three legs with one leg taken away by a speeding vehicle or a blind train or even by a hunting predator. The sand on the floor is brushed up daily to make it fresh; some more sand is added and some turned over daily with an aim to keep the floor clean and dry. Sand is then sprinkled with water to keep the dust from rising up


This ward put me into shame (yet again and I don't really remember how many times I have been left with a guilt for being a human being). This male is a victim of an acid attack (what the hell!). There were others with rods in their private parts, cuts on bodies and burn marks at all places.... Thank God for such places even though there ain't many as of now


Say hello to the Cow No 1 - the first one to ever land up here. She is worshiped as part of cow worship ritual by visitors
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Came out of the place with mixed feelings. Just outside the gate, they have a reception area and they offered us some real nice cow milk tea. While we sat down sipping tea and writing our feedback for the management body, a gentleman walked up to me, introducing himself as an ex soldier who is now dedicated to the cause. No wonder the place has such a look and feel. They ask for nothing but volunteer donations are welcome. With seven tons of fodder being used daily and an uncertain amount of medicines required everyday, the running expenditure per day is about Four Lacs and only donations keep the place going (godhamsevatirth.com/ godhamsevatirth@gmail.com). We got up and began to walk back to our car. Out of nowhere, I said to Czia, "Baby, you just did a holy pilgrimage today!" I am sure she understood!

Picked up some stuff at Nagaur while snacks that we had picked up from Jodhpur the previous evening meant that we did not really need to waste time on having a proper lunch. So, we had multiple meals but on the fly. We had heard and had wanted to visit the famous Bala ji Temple at Salasar for quite some time now. Today, we were to get pleasantly surprised that the place lay on our route to Churu and we actually had no decision to be really made. It was past afternoon and there was no great rush. We had our darshans in peace ...

Jai Bajrang Bali!
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By the time we reached Churu, it was late in the evening; late more because of shorter winter days than time. Took a fill as we were about to enter the town and asked the guy at the pump about the hotels. He advised and strongly recommended Hotel Shakti Palace that lay a bit ahead and bang on the HW-65. A new property that, somehow, failed to impress.

Malji Ka Kamra, as we were to discover instantly as we surfed Google sir, was a 100 years old heritage property with its own fresco and such like work. Asked a few people (many preferring to call it Kamro and not Kamra) and finally entered the narrow lane that houses the property amidst a few other havelis, some temples and many newly constructed houses. Left two of them in the car outside and walked into the big gate with hundreds of pigeons resting on a service cable that ran just next to the gate. It was dark by that time and it was like walking into the past (though restored!). Mr Iqbal runs the place but was not around. A staff member showed me the place. He started with Maharaja Suite - the prized part of the property. He then moved on to show other rooms and the cost range turned out to be between 9K for the suite to about 3K for simple rooms (there are about a dozen in total). Not wanting to waste time and with an aim to feel like Maharaja, I chose the one. It was already late in the evening and with no more guests expected that night (except three more couples who were already in or were already booked for respective rooms), he agreed to climb down from 9K to 6.5K. Feel of royalty at such a price was too tempting to leave out.

Girls, however, were immediately reminded of spooky stories (even though we don't watch such shows at home) as they entered the property proper, ie after crossing its big lawn. The vintage of the property, coupled with lack of rush and the fact that a few old and dilapidated havelis looked directly into our eyes, probably made them feel that way. The property, however, was well lit and well illuminated and soon, they settled down. As the lore goes, Malji Kothari was the richest trader in an town, that was known for its traders, when Raja Ganga Singh ruled Bikaner. Churu was part of his empire. Raja would visit Churu frequently (reasons not known) and Malji, in order to have a place worth Raja's standards, had got the place built as a guesthouse-cum-Rang mahal for the Raja. The property took about 17 years to get completed. With empires gone, the buildings (including havelis in the neighbourhood), began to turn into ruins and this property was no exception. A part of it, in fact, collapsed sometime during that period. Another family (Balans), much later on, bought the property and renovated it over next few years. Now, it is a hotel and a reasonably decent one on that. The fresco are old and beyond repairs since while the building had lay in ruins, unwelcome guests had destroyed many of its art that could not be restored in the present era. The new owners, therefore, decided to leave the surviving art as it is. Mr Iqbal showed us some unique features of old construction. While damaged art may not appear to be tasteful, it keeps an old way of construction and artwork alive and that is something very important.

We climbed on to the roof to have a feel of the town that was lit at that time. Dinner was not part of the package and we ordered one. After joking around about spooky things, we fell asleep and got up only in the morning. Some shots...

The multi-tier cake like facade.... property has a beautiful lawn in front (not in pic)



The inner courtyard serves as a restaurant


The corridors looking over the courtyard (restaurant)


The entrance to the Maharaja Suite


The suite


A good blend ... modern amenities gel with the old and vintage. Bathrooms are well furnished and complimentary wi-fi is available


Damaged but beautiful fresco work


The common sitting area


The original work.... Mr Iqbal will explain a thing or two when you visit here


The entrance door from inside


The bedside guy


Fresco tells a story or two


The vintage vanity


Some work is more or less intact


The contemporary art of that era


A closer look reveals damage


What survives today, remains


A profile view


Outside the confines of the inner courtyard, this area serves as a sit out, overlooking the lawn


Food can be enjoyed here in this sit out too


A thing of beauty


The morning after


The legend:resent


Not spooked anymore


A parting shot
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At just about 350 odd Kms from Delhi as well as Chandigarh, Churu has a lot to offer, including this haveli. Unfortunately, marketing has not been up to the mark. We were, ourselves, unaware of the property till that evening. Yes, it is worth a visit.

Hit the roads after complimentary breakfast. Fed coordinates into Mr GPS and let it loose. It made us drive through some very rustic Rajasthan and part of Western Haryana before bringing us back to the familiar Bhatinda-Jammu stretch. The journey was uneventful thereafter and we hit the base after 650 Kms of drive the same evening!

Back to work; can't wait to get out again!!

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